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The dining space at Le Coucou.

The designers were eager to explore what it would mean to create an ornate and soulful restaurant in a city that, at the moment, favors a more mellow and casual approach. But while the place is, indeed, fancy, “you don’t have to gild something to make it feel exquisite,” says Standefer. “We wanted to create the sense of ease and comfort that you might find at someone’s home—to make it less pretentious and stuffy and more moody.”

The decorative elements, Alesch explains, were all chosen to evoke emotion and “create a dreamscape that is not overly specific about a place and time in history. It’s our own reintegration of what we see and feel is grown-up and beautiful.”

The front dining space at Le Coucou.

A triple-hung window separating the main entrance and bar from the more formal dining room acts like a lantern, directing light and introducing a more intimate feel. High arched openings and vaulted ceilings give gravity to the space, while “rows of chandeliers marching down the ceiling and the punctuation of the tall candles,” highlight its structure, says Standefer. The volume, notes Alesch, “feels decadent and pleasurable,” while the muted color scheme introduces “a sense of poise, of rhythm and punctuation,” Standefer adds.

Large mohair banquettes more readily invoke a living room sofa than a fine-dining table, reminding guests of the intimacy and comfort of a dinner party at home. And as with the best dinner parties, it’s the vibe that’s most important. Says Standefer, “The dynamics and energy of the kitchen spill into the space. Like Daniel’s cooking, it’s meticulous yet mischievous—what you expect is not necessarily what you will get.”

Le Coucou, 138 Lafayette St., New York; air jordan retro 14 indiglo on feet WTfdp

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